Category Archives: Guatemala
Welcome to Guatemala, Mexico’s friendly neighbor to the south.
Mexico’s southern neighbor is far from being just a smaller version of Mexico. Yes, Spanish is the official language, but most people speak an ancient Mayan language and have noticably distinct cultures.
Yes, it´s Latin America, but it´s a land of distinct ecosystems: black sand beaches in the south, mountains and volcanoes in the center, and steaming jungles in the north.
Yes, it’s a small country, but besides all the nature you´ll find colonial cities, a thriving art and music scene, and world-class archeological sites.
Yes, they eat tortillas, but they are fluffy thick ones, like sopes in Mexico. And you’re more likely to find fried chicken than tacos.
What is perhaps most interesting for me is Guatemala’s unique population. Yes, Mayans inhabit southern Mexico, much of Belize, and small parts of Honduras and El Salvador, but in Guatemala they are the majority.
There are two main ways to get into Guatemala – colectivos (passenger vans) from San Cristobal de las Casas to the border at Cuauhtémoc, or the long trip from Palenque in Mexico to Tikal, where the river is the border and you cross in a little boat.
The Guatemalan Highlands, in roughly the southwest part of the country, contains two of my favorite destinations: Quetzaltenango, Guatemala´s second largest city and a great place to study English; and Lake Atitlan:
To finally arrive at Lake Atitlan at sundown for the boat ride across to the little town of San Pedro is a wonderful thing.
The chicken bus, the staple of Guatemalan public transportation:
Between the Mexican border and Lake Atitlan is Quetzaltenango (aka Xela), Guatemala’s second largest city.
It’s nice to walk up into the hills above Xela. This hike leads you to a sauna called Los Vahos built over cracks in the mountain that release steam from the volcano.
Views of the city:
This is a milpa, a Mayan-style farm. They rotate corn, beans, and squash – among other crops.
Back into the city.
Looming over Xela is the extinct Santa Maria Volcano.
It’s a long, tough hike to the top and you have to leave really early in the morning before the clouds roll in. I went last year and saw only clouds.
Right below the peak, on the other side of the volcano from the city, is an active volcano called Santiaguito.
After hanging out on top for about a half hour I was surprised by the first eruption. The gas burst right out of the rock with a boom that reached me a few seconds late, like thunder. I saw five in total.
Beyond Santiaguito is the Pacific coast, and to the left and right continue the range of volcanoes. These are the ones that surround Lake Atitlan:
And of course there’s a lot more to Guatemala than the highlands, such as Rio Dulce in the north:
This guy is selling paterna (aka cushin, aka burbury), one of my favorite fruits:
And of course Tikal, absolutely one of the best Mayan sites, and in fact one of the best archeological sites in the world:
Thanks to Immersion Travel for publishing my article Chicabal Lake Volcano: Grassroots Ecology in Guatemala.
Wailing voices echo across the lake to where I sit on a bench, breaking open rambutans, small fruit the size of golf balls with hairy red peels. Three women bow down at the shore as they sing and pray, wearing the multicolored, woven dresses of Guatemalan Mayans. A man in jeans sits behind them and two small children quietly play. From about 50 yards away, I’m close enough to see, but I hope not close enough to be intrusive.
Click here for the rest of the story.
Yes I’ve been slacking on updating this blog. I have plenty of stories in the works, but also tons of hours at the day job.
Thanks to all of you who read this blog and especially those who follow it. I love reading your comments, so please let me know where you are and why you are interested in Mexico.
Transitions Abroad, one of the best websites on living and working abroad, just released their April webzine. Three of my articles are featured in it, including one of my favorites, A Drinking, Smoking, Womanizing Saint, researched and written during my first trip in Guatemala two summers ago.
The issue is devoted to Latin America, with many stories focused on finding work or volunteer opportunities.
You can check it out by clicking here.
I don’t want to use this post to just plug the webzine, so enjoy some recent photos: